The basis of the wiring is an Aprilia Mille loom. From then on there are two schools of thought; either keep everything in the loom, including things like indicators and lights, or, chop out everything which isn't to do with the engine management system and create a new loom for the lights.

I chose to chop out the lighting from the Aprilia loom. The main reason for this is to get round the problem of the donor loom being proportioned for a bike, when what you need is one proportioned for a car. So some brave work with the side cutters ensued as I chopped away. I kept the dash board wiring for the indicator and main beam warning light. I ditched the whole of the radiator fan loom as well as the headlight and indicator wiring. I also rationalised the engine cut out wiring, removing the side-stand cut out switch, the 'oh dear I've fallen over' switch and the 'antitheft' connector.

One advantage is that having stripped off the conduit I have been able to re-route many wires and simplified the layout. I edited the standard wiring diagram to produce the simplified one, then use this for the scary bit of cutting and either extending or shortening the wires to suit.

The next brave decision was to mount the ECU up the front, you have to either extend the wiring to the ECU or the dashboard, it's not quite six of one, half a dozen of the other, but not much difference, and with the ECU forward, you end up with a neater engine bay

A friend dropped round and had a productive few hours making a bracket for the four coils, I've mounted it right behind the engine. (The photo shows a temporary bit of MDF acting as the bulkhead) .

I chose to go for a rack of modern switches with nothing on the steering column. The switch rack is mounted on the right dash panel along with the starter switch which is a genuine engine start switch from a Spitfire! As the hockey stick may need to be removed I've used spade and tang connector blocks, one each for the lights, brake fluid test, indicators and start.

I ran the engine loom and starter cable inside the car down the nearside and the other loom for the lights as well as the gearchange, throttle cable, brake pipe and clutch pipe down the offside. You can run the whole lot underneath in a channel, but I reckon it will be a casualty on the first trip into the kitty litter!

Make sure you run the brake pipe along the side of the square section of the chassis not on top of the floor or anywhere it may get trodden on, it's an SVA failure!

Fuse/Relay Box

I mounted the fuse and relay box on the front bulkhead and drilled 4 holes through the bulkhead for the supply cables. You need a lot more un-switched fuses than switched ones as almost everything needs to run with the ignition off, I used 4 relays, Main, Dip, Horn and switched Ignition

Speed Sensor

You can mount the speed sensor close to any of the 4 sets of drive bolts on the rear drive shafts, but inboard seemed sensible as it's out of the way of mud and shite. I made up a two part alumunium bracket which is riveted at the tip and picks up on the diff plate bolts. It's very stiff and hopefully the speed sensor will detect the bolt heads as they whizz round.